We set off for a few days of road trippin' after a lovely warm spell which heralds the official beginning of Spring on 1st September. A very welcome seasonal change after two consecutive winters. The willow trees have suddenly burst into life with glorious colour along the Whare Kea driveway.
As we noted in the last text, we meandered through the Goldfields Hills towards the east coast passing through the small towns of Clyde and Ranfurly before heading north at Palmerston onto Highway 1 which connects Dunedin and Christchurch. Inevitably, we are delayed by a farmer and mad dogs herding a large flock of sheep down the main road as the lambing season begins in earnest.
As a special birthday treat I am spoilt with dinner at Fleurs Place in Moeraki, a fabulous fish and seafood restaurant sitting on the wharf and with a direct supply of fresh fish each evening from the daly catch of the village boats. Recommended by my favourite celeb chef, Rick Stein, the menu mirrors Stein's culinary ethos of quality produce, locally sourced and simply cooked. The quirky building and equally quirky local guests made the visit all the more memorable.
Diane modelling tonight's grilled selection of gurnard, sole and moki with steamed organic vegetables and a kale pesto and lemon mash - oh and a small glass of Otago Chard Farm chardonnay.
Birthday treat boy gets tasty birthday "cake" of creme brûlée complete with candle.
Our studio apartment overlooking the wharf at Fleurs acts as a great base for a couple of days' touring. And with a glorious morning greeting us, we head north to Oamaru for brunch and a wander. The town, which grew dramatically from the 1860s, became known as the "whitestone city" in the rush of building of dramatic Victorian edifices funded by expansive growth in the major port area. This serviced transportation of agricultural produce from the Otago hinterland to other parts of New Zealand and the world. The town scored a notable first in shipping the initial supplies of New Zealand lamb, primarily to the UK.
Things were all moving along swimmingly until the 1890s when a slump in global agricultural commodity prices (blame those Crazy Canuck farmers and the US corn belt) and over-mortgaged assets led to the terminal decline of the town's wealth. The glorious structures on Harbour, Tyne & Tees Streets crumbled and the port area declined into a muddy morass.
Now there is some regeneration and the restoration of many of the major buildings breathes an air of gentility back to the wide boulevards. Cafes and shops, many selling antique and retro-Victorian goods, abound.
Bit of Victorian fun and frolics in the daguerreotype studios.
As you meander down the main street, you come across a strangely Mad Max building and display of 'Steampunk' - a vision of the world (drug-addled if you ask me) based on imagining inventions the Victorians might have created for the modern world. So here's a rocket train sitting outside Steampunk HQ (??!)
And on down the coast to visit the Moeraki Boulders. A natural geological phenomenon - not dinosaur or alien eggs - which are estimated to be some 60 million years old, 4 million years in the making. The boulders are spherical stones scattered across a beach. Each boulder weighs several tonnes and is up to two metres high and were formed as sediments, decaying plant and marine life fell to the bottom of the prehistoric ocean and were rolled around in currents, compressed and finally enclosed in mudflat cliffs before erosion in more modern times exposed them on the beach at low tide. More romantically, according to Maori legend, the boulders are gourds washed ashore from the great voyaging canoe Araiteuru when it was wrecked upon landfall in New Zealand hundreds of years ago. Either way, they are pretty spectacular and a bugger to climb.
Our wanderings take us to romantic beaches, dramatic headlands and through many small towns and settlements along to an overnight stay in Geraldine at the heart of the Canterbury dairy farming industry. Along state highways, dirt tracks and beaches, the faithful Ulrik-kar-KAR Audi chugs along quite contentedly. Some beautiful settings and skies on our way.
From flat plains to mountains we travel through the series of hydro-lakes, Waitaki, Aviemore, Benmore and Ohau. On the way we stop for coffee at Kurow, birthplace of now legendary All Black Captain, Richie McCaw. He's a bit of a demigod around these parts where the locals are collecting for a statue commemorating his recent achievements. We took a picture of the shrine to Richie and my comment on sending the pic to some mates back home apologised for him being slightly offside in the photo (not unlike in his playing career). This elicited a prompt and witty riposte from pal Kenny, "I saw Richie McCaw playing in a match once in which he was once actually onside, but it was accidental and so the referee let it go." Tee Hee. Only envy, Kiwi readers! I would point out that I also left an appropriate deposit in the box provided.
Our final stop on this trip is at Lake Ohau Lodge, where we meet Gill, Oli and Otis for an overnight stay prior to climbing the precipitous mountain track to ski the Ohau ski field. The lodge has a wonderful setting, nestled in the foothills and above the lake and offers a quaint boarding with dinner served to all the guests at trestle tables where we meet a variety of international travellers over a quite superb offering of venison, confit of duck and vegetarian options. Otis is delighted to be there and grins from ear to ear.
Particualry high tide yesterday evening.
Lake Ohau and view towards Aoraki Mount Cook.
Lodge sits to the right of this pic.
After a series of stunning days, guess what happens on ski day? Low cloud, low light and zero visibility. So disappointing for Gill and Oli who have had no opportunity to be out on the mountain this year. We did a couple of runs, by Braille, but had to give is up at a bad job. Such a shame.
Here's what the ski field should look like:
....and here's what it was actually like on he day:
NEG!