The Northland. The narrow isthmus above the busy metropolis of Auckland. For so many Kiwis the phrase "Up North" is not one of our UK images. It's far from grim and conjures up rose-tinted/sepia childhood images of family fun, pohutukawa trees in full scarlet bloom and dolphins cavorting in romantic bays. It's not far from the truth. The 350km of land north of the main urban area of the country is, once again, quite stunning. We had anticipated a quite flat and barren landscape. Far from this; there's amazing sub-tropical forests, golden beaches populated by keen surfers, mountains and quaint towns.
So much of New Zealand's history is concentrated in the area - from the earliest Polynesian settlers, to the arrival of European whalers, early white settlers and church missions, so much of this young country's history is concertinaed in this area. The Treaty Grounds at Waitangi witnessed the signing of sovereignty to the British Crown in 1840 and is a significant centre both for pakeha (white) New Zealanders and Maori iwi.
Our trip took us to the far north, to Cape Reinga, where the South Pacific Ocean collides with the Tasman Sea.
It's a visual extravaganza, but also has sacred meaning to Maori. At the northernmost tip of the Cape is a gnarled pohutukawa tree, believed to be over 800 years old. According to Maori oral history, the spirits of deceased Maori descend into the roots of this tree into the ocean to return to their ancestral homeland of Hawaiki. In this picture, the tree sits on the sand closest to the crashing waves.
A few miles down the coast is the Bay of the Spirits, Kaporaiua, where the souls of the dead gather after their departure at the Cape. Reputed to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the whole of the country, it's not a bad place to collect in the afterlife and for us still gathering breath to gather seashells washed from the ocean.
Our southerly meanderings had to take into account some fun on the way down. There are massive sand dunes on the western beaches and enterprising Kiwis have set up business renting out surfing body boards so you can hurtle down these precipices to your hearts' content.
Along the entire side of the peninsula runs the legendary 90-mile beach. Renowned for spectacular sunsets and boasting one of the best left hand surf breaks in the world (whatever that is??), it was a bit wet by the time we arrived. We could only see 90-metres at that stage, but here's a photo anyway...
By the way, that guy is not far away, he's just small, Dougal (apologies, if you don't follow, see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXypyrutq_M)
Well, as usual we will fill the blog with incredible photos of beaches - here's Mangawhai Heads surf heaven (and a couple of ersatz surf dudes).
Cape Maria Van Dieman.
Paihia beach and Waitangi memorial.
We spend a couple of days in the delightful company of Mike and Melinda in Devonport who take us to the immediate north of the city - and where every self-respecting Auckland has a bach (holiday home) and a boat. Brunch in the famous Little and Friday cafe where we also pick up their renowned cream doughnuts for a later snack. Though the girls get rather over-exuberant in sampling these treats.
A walk along the eco trail has us spotting many of the wild birds and plants which had almost become extinct in this area, but are making a comeback; notably the kauri tree (which of course, the Europeans cut down in the 19th century for housing and ship building with barely a moment's thought for sustainability).
Waiheke Island. Situated in the bay between Auckland and the Coromandel, Waiheke is a splendid little island.
In the dress of Devon and Cornwall it has the added bonus of 17 wineries and 2 breweries in its 19km by 5km perimeter. It is accessible by ferry from Auckland's central terminal and is a mere 35 minutes on a cruise through a myriad of other islets, some habited, some nature reserves.
It's no surprise that many of the 9,000 or so permanent residents commute to the big city every day and as a visitor, it is slightly off-putting to be able to view Auckland's CBD and Sky Tower from remote western parts of the island, a mere 19km away.
Not surprisingly, it's a tourist destination with the population swelling by three times in the summer months.
Our ferry disgorged a crowd of many nationalities, all piling onto the local bus which takes you along the most populated eastern and central areas. Chaos ruled as more and more folk attempted to squeeze on (it was the school holidays that week) with pushchairs and zimmer frames jostling for position. In the end we jumped off and walked the final kilometre - the Battle of The No 2 Bus was threatening to break out in a wave of parasols, windbreaks and deckchairs.
Our home for the night was with Jilly in Moa Avenue and a quaint spot is was, too. In easy reach of Oneroa's cafes, shops and bars, we could sidle along the beach, or stop for a quick beer.
Dinner at The Oyster Restaurant provided two memorable moments. D, in her keen role as tour photographer, sends me inside the restaurant, which is situated on the first floor overlooking the sea. It's a cute ramp, full of potted plants and marine memorabilia.
"Off you go, walk up there", I am instructed "and I'll take a photo of the back passage" (!!!)
Surprisingly, for a bit of a foodie, I realise that D has never actually eaten an oyster before. A local speciality, these just have to be ordered. At first there is somewhat undue caution.
But it all works out beautifully in the end. The sweet and salty treat is savoured (and mine are snaffled too!)
We while away time in two of the local wineries, Mudbrick and Cable Bay. Both producing excellent samples of NZ's prime wine grapes, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon and Chardonnay. The former winery has an impressive restaurant , formal herb garden and helipad for touring wine buffs in a hurry,
The following morning, a bit of a wet start, is spent on the beach in Onetangi after a delicious brunch at Charlie Farleys. (Remember that sketch that used to be in The Two Ronnies? Charlie Farley & Piggy Malone, private dicks?)
Apologies for the Instagram-style photo of a plate of food - but it was outstanding!
Then a meander down the mile-long beach as the skies cleared.
Rotorua. The town is set on its namesake lake and is renowned for its geothermal activity and Maori culture. In Te Puia’s Whakarewarewa Valley, there are bubbling mud pools and the 30m-tall Pohutu Geyser, which erupts many times daily. It’s also home to a living Maori village and the New Zealand Maori Arts and Crafts Institute, with traditional wood carving and weaving schools. For us, the town is rather like many in NZ, and sadly nothing to write home about. Also, it stinks of sulphur and bad eggs. A bit like Oldham of a Saturday night.
There is uproar here over a FaceBook page, "Sh*t Towns of New Zealand, the author having received death threats over posts such as rating Rotorua the second-worst place in the country. "Roto-Vegas, the only place where smelling like a toilet is considered a tourist attraction," Hmmmmm.
But there are great wood carvings.
The bow of a traditionally carved waka, or war canoe. Each carving tells of different hapu (clans, or septs of the main iwi tribe) and gods allied to those tribes.
Our trip out to Lake Tarawera, past the Green and Blue Lakes, was beautiful.
